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Banteay Chhmar

Yet another “Lost" Jungle temple !

Cambodia seems to be is full of jungle temples; but Banteay Chhmar proved to one of the most exiting of all!  I knew of only a few people who have been there. They had been spoken excitedly of this place; however: having  seen few photos and none in the rainy season, I  wasn’t quite sure of what to expect.

The route was very straightforward; just 120kms along route 6 to Sissophon and turn right , north; for 60kms and the temple is quite close to the road. The Route 6 is still a mess and awash east  from Kralanh which added ½ hour to the journey to Sissophon. We were all in need of food by then  eating in a small local café, opposite the Market. The café was somewhat better than I might of expected; pretty clean and modern on a row of concrete shop houses.

The Shop owner told us that it would take an hour to Banteay Chhmar on a good road.  Leaving the town with a certain amount of scepticism we set off on a good tarmac road north.  We were amazed to find that excellent smooth clay road  led to Banteay Chhmar in one hour.

  The Moat                                                       Dharmasala

Banteay Chhmar is surrounded by a wide moat comparable in scale and size  to that of Angkor Thom. The cluster of houses alongside was reminiscent of the Village of Beng Mealea as the location looks very similar.

Guarded to two concrete replicas of gods heads the a short causeway led  to the entrance which was on the East side of the temple.  The remains of a balustrade at one time was  lined with gods and Demons; but now only two replicas remain. At the entrance a small building was decorated with finely carved Apsara dancers. The families of The Army officers at the nearby barracks collected a $5 admission fee.

We entered a cleared green area with a new white Buddha shrine ahead. To the right a dilapidated but reasonably intact Dharmasala or rest house. The roof looked ready to collapse.

A few tens of metres away; the outer wall partially hidden amongst trees gave no indication of the spectacular sights within. A partially overgrown and rubble strewn and precarious arch, defied gravity.  The green canyons between the high walls. Were strewn with rubble and choked with vegetation.  Weak shafts of sunlight caressed the stones and illuminated the lush green vegetation. Every step gave yet another fabulous composition.

Looking ahead another gateway with a finely carved lintel beached the wall. Beyond here the sight of the fabulous Bayon style towers with faces of the Bodhisattvas among the trees just took my breath away.

In all my temple visits I have never felt such a feeling of euphoria and sheer delight at this place. Beng Mealea meets Ta Prohm and The Bayon in this stunning jungle setting.  If any Jungle  Temple could justify being called such; then Banteay Chhmar has just knocked Beng Mealea of that ultimate Jungle Temple Pedestal!

Yet another “Lost" Jungle temple lost! In 2009 tourist development has come to this previously unknown site. So far tourist development hasn't had too much impact; the the few visitor s who come here are still rewarded with a stunning spectacle free of crowds. Some restoration work is now going on to the eastern entrance. but once inside the atmosphere is little changed from when I first visited it  in 2005.

Some of the many towers with enclosure walls in the distance

Climbing up on the walls and on  some of the lower corbelled roofs gave the most spectacular views between the huge trees of  the concentric walls with the emerald vegetation below.  A small Group of kids from the Army Camp followed us around enthusiastically pointing out some of the Buddha figures and Apsaras.

Standing on a roof, one of the boys showed me to magnificent Buddha group virtually under my feet.  We returned to ground level and I asked where the famed multi armed Vishnu’s were.

Sophath and I were taken to a distant wall where behind a small doorway were the most impressive and unique bas reliefs  of their kind in Cambodia. Sadly some moronic vandals had scrawled messages in Khmer in various places on body of the  relief. (The picture shown has the offending writings removed.

Fire Ants !

We caught up with Nigel who had been “lost” for an hour in a euphoric state amongst the ruins.  I gave Chher a  quick phone call to confirm when we were going to head back. While doing so I had a stabbing pain from within my trousers! A small army of ants had sneaked up the inside of my right leg silently; then a coordinated attack began.. A series of stabbing pans around my groin had me clutching at my privates to kill the red venomous attackers.

We returned to the central Sanctuary where more pale sunlight filtered through the trees. I found more vantage points amongst the towers.  There were many lovely carvings hidden amongst the ruins and broken colonnades dressed with ivy. The three hours or so we spent here passed far too quickly.

We left at two thirty. The drive home was uneventful  and dry with a short stop off at the stone workshops along the road at Preah Neth Preah. There are impressive pieces here; ranging from small pocket able Buddha’s to huge statues weighing several tonnes. The quality stone items for sale here cost a fraction of the price of what you would pay in the tourist shops in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. So it is well worthwhile asking your driver to stop here .