Route 6: the nightmare road? 

For many years; especially in the 1990s; Cambodia’s  highway 6 in will go down in history as one of the worlds worst major roads. A nightmare for those who travelled on it in the rainy season and a bumpy dusty experience in a pick up truck at the best of times; It was a “one hell of a road“ to quote an Australian on my first experience in 2002.

By 2002 the road was much improved; but even then; 4wd pickups and kamikaze drivers in Toyota Camry’s were the only way. Half  of the 180kms were on a very bad pot holed mess. The rest was just in poor condition and very bumpy in places.

The war ravaged bridge above still carries the main road. It was rebuilt with the old partially collapsed structure intact. It is a poignant reminder of the civil war that ended in 1998.

From Siem Reap to Phnom Penh the Capital; was in many ways just as bad. The tarmac ran out at Roluos 12 Kms from Siem Reap. From there on, two thirds of the 300 kilometres were on a dirt road as bad as anything in the African sub continent. If you were lucky you could do it in 8hours! As a consequence of this; the overcrowded fast ferries had no competition, as they did the run in 5 hours.

For those going overland from Bangkok, ones first experience of Cambodia, was the squalid dusty town of Poipet. The contrast between the relatively orderly Thailand and the wild town of touts, beggars and poverty, was really quite unbelievable!

What’s it Like Now? I hear you ask. Well Poipet is still looking like a wild west town; though more like Las Vegas with all the bright new casinos. They cater for the Thai market, where gambling is illegal. The main street is now paved and some new hotels have sprung up along the main street.

The border crossing from Aryanapathet into Poipet is a lot easier now. There is less of the hassle that use to plague this crossing for the independent traveller but you must be wary as the touts are still active.

Taxi fares have gone up to $45 and at times $60+ is asked so our best advice is to book a taxi before you go.

.For More info see  our  Travel Advice page

Sadly those who buy through tickets from Bangkok are getting a very bad deal and the companies are taking people through more remote crossings; forcing people  to pay double for their visas and exchange for reils at a poor rate.  This is happening regardless of the cost of the ticket; so don't think you will get a better deal for paying more; You Won't.

Route 6 Update November  2006

The road; after months of the rainy season in 2006 and a lot of heavy traffic; the road between Poipet and Sissophon has changed little (see before and after photos).

The Improvements have not yet materialised. The road from  Sissophon to Kralanh is being widened in places and most of the old metal bridges are being removed. The road surface is still gravel and dust .

The biggest change is the onward march of pylons bringing an power from Thailand.  From Kralanh the road is a mess until Pouk 30 Kms from Siem Reap where pot holed tarmac leads you to the Airport junction. Beyond here  the road widens and becomes immaculately smooth passing the huge hotels on the road to Siem reap Town Centre.

 It it is now taking up 3 1/2   hours for the journey from Poipet  to Siem Reap.

4 years down the road

2 photos of the road east of Sissophon, taken from exactly the same location; spot the difference!

The left hand pic was taken on 13 November 2002  from the cab of a pickup truck while crossing a steel bailey bridge 

The one on the right was taken from the remains of the old bridge on  28th Nov 2006 . The old bailey bridge has now been removed with one of many detours  seen to  to the right.

Rumours suggest that Bangkok Airways have paid the Government to keep the road bad to encourage people to fly. I really cannot believe this as the Bangkok to Siem Reap route by air is overcrowded and as it only takes 45 mins; even an 8 hour journey (the best which could be expected) would be too long for most!.

Sissophon

The small town of Sissophon; which is the major junction for Battembang has lost most of its overnight visitors so tourism will probably pass it by. Sissophon can be used as a springboard for Banteay Chhmar a huge temple complex to the north  and for the Ang Trapang Thmor reserve; home of the extremely rare Sarus Crane.

Toilet Ville

Between Sissophon and Siem Reap is the small town of Kralanh; it has achieved recent notoriety for becoming the toilet capital of Cambodia. A couple of years ago a house owner installed a WC and advertised it to passing traffic. This proved so popular and lucrative that many of his neighbours joined in to cash in the insatiable demand from passing tourists and locals.

There are no shortage now of places to relieve oneself in this town; but beware; the hour either way  has no facilities; so you will just have to hang on till Siem Reap or Sissophon

Kralanh has an attractive  old village 1km from the main centre; the old wood shop houses were saved from destruction by the Khmer Rouge; because it was a KR Stronghold

Heading south from Siem Reap; Route 6 has improved immensely; so much that is now takes 3 to 4  hours by car and less than 5 by bus. The ferries will have to watch out, as the road is now faster and it is much cheaper by bus. The tarmaced, fast road has had many casualties. There are many more traffic accidents with kids and animals. Some towns are now putting in European style traffic calming measures; rumble strips and massive speed humps to slow traffic down.

The first sizable town out of Siem Reap is Dam Dek which has a market but little else to tempt the visitor. There is now a much improved road north; which  joins the new road to the jungle temple of Beng Mealea and continues via the Ancient Khmer capital of Koh Ker and will eventually lead to the Thai the Border at O’Samach.

At Kompong Kdei; there is an impressive Pre-Angkorian bridge which is now just off  the main route; as the village has been recently been by-passed.  The Bridge has magnificent Naga balustrades. and some impressive vaulting over the river. It is worth  asking a taxi driver to stop there for a few minutes on the way.

Spean Raptos Kompong Kdei                                                              Typical Shop Houses

Kompong Thom; half way to Phnom Penh is the biggest town in the area and can be used as a base for visiting the Temples of Sambor Pre Kuk 30kms north.

There are a few places to stay and eat. Buses usually stop here near the Arunas Restaurant and newly refurbished hotel  near the centre of town.

double deck bus at Arunas Hotel Kompong Thom

Santuk

Just south of here is Phnom Santuk which is a very important Temple Mountain and well worth a visit. Approached by nearly a thousand well maintained steps  Santuk is in a splendid location with stunning views over the surrounding country. It is possible to see across the flood plain of the Tonle Sap to The Hills of Kampong Chhang 30kms distant.

Central Shrine    

Arachnophobes do not venture below here!

One hour or so south of Kompong Thom is small town of Skun. The pretty unremarkable place has some very remarkable eating habits. Known as Spiderville; some residents eat roasted tarantulas which are bred for the purpose. It is common to the ladies walking around the market and bus stand with plates of these delicious arachnids with oil lovingly spooned over them.

If you are really “lucky” one of the vendors will offer you a live one to play with!

The last part of the journey to Phnom Penh, follows the Mekong River. This huge waterway is hidden from view for most of the way; but one can see the opposite banks from time to time with occasional glimpses of the water at a distance. North Phnom Penh is now becoming quite built up with many factories and brick works alongside the road

Brickworks

The final approach to the city is over the Japanese Friendship Bridge which Crosses to Tonle Sap River just north of the City.

Aerial photo of Phnom Penh Friendship bridge By Ta Elit  

More on Phnom Penh

Updated 24 Jun 2007

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All images and text © Dave Perkes 2007 www.peaceofangkor.com

Peace of Angkor Villa  0133 Slorkram Village, Siem Reap, Cambodia    PO Box 93125      Email us ( 855 (0)63 760 475