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Route 6:
the nightmare road?
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For many years; especially in
the 1990s; Cambodia’s highway 6 in will go down in history as one of the
worlds worst major roads. A nightmare for those who travelled on it in the
rainy season and a bumpy dusty experience in a pick up truck at the best of
times; It was a “one hell of a road“ to quote an Australian on my first
experience in 2002.
By 2002 the road was much
improved; but even then; 4wd pickups and kamikaze drivers in Toyota Camry’s
were the only way. Half of the 180kms were on a very bad pot holed mess.
The rest was just in poor condition and very bumpy in places.
Now in 2009 the road is complete and fully tarmaced
with new bridges white lines and crash barriers . Its no adventure
now; but with travel times from Siem Reap to Poipet 2 hours its a lot
more comfortable experience
All this below is now history!
The war ravaged bridge above
carried the main road
until 2008. It was rebuilt with the old partially collapsed
structure intact. It is a poignant reminder of the civil war that ended in
1998. |
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The Border |
Old Poipet |
bailey bridge |
dampening down the dust |
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From Siem Reap to Phnom Penh the
Capital; was in many ways just as bad. The tarmac ran out at Roluos 12 Kms
from Siem Reap. From there on, two thirds of the 300 kilometres
were on a dirt road as bad as anything in the African sub continent. If you
were lucky you could do it in 8hours! As a consequence of this; the
overcrowded fast ferries had no competition, as they did the run in 5 hours.
For
those going overland from Bangkok, ones first experience of Cambodia, was
the squalid dusty town of Poipet. The contrast between the relatively
orderly Thailand and the wild town of touts, beggars and poverty, was really
quite unbelievable! |
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What’s it Like Now? I
hear you ask. Well Poipet is still looking like a wild west town; though
more like Las Vegas with all the bright new casinos. They cater for the Thai
market, where gambling is illegal. The main street is now paved and some new
hotels have sprung up along the main street.
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Poipet Casino |
Traffic Circle |
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Poipet to Siem
Reap |
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The border crossing from Aryanapathet into
Poipet is a lot easier now. There is less of the hassle that use to plague
this crossing for the independent traveller but you must be wary as the touts are still active.
Taxi
fares have gone up to $45 and at times $60+ is asked so our best advice is
to book a taxi before you go.
.For More info see
our
Travel Advice page
Sadly those who buy through
tickets from Bangkok are getting a very bad deal and the companies are
taking people through more remote crossings; forcing people to pay
double for their visas and exchange for reils at a poor rate. This is
happening regardless of the cost of the ticket; so don't think you will get
a better deal for paying more; You Won't.
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4 years down the road
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2 photos of the road east of
Sissophon, taken from exactly the same location; spot the difference!
The left hand pic was taken on
13 November 2002 from the cab of a pickup truck while crossing a steel
bailey bridge
The one on the right was taken
from the remains of the old bridge on 28th Nov 2006 . The old bailey
bridge has now been removed with one of many detours seen to to
the right.
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Rumours
suggest that Bangkok Airways have paid the Government to keep the road bad
to encourage people to fly. I really cannot believe this as the Bangkok to
Siem Reap route by air is overcrowded and as it only takes 45 mins; even an
8 hour journey (the best which could be expected) would be too long for
most!.
Sissophon
The small town of Sissophon;
which is the major junction for Battembang has lost most of its overnight
visitors so tourism will probably pass it by. Sissophon can be used as a
springboard for Banteay Chhmar a huge temple complex to the north and for
the Ang Trapang Thmor reserve; home of the extremely rare Sarus Crane.
Toilet Ville
Between
Sissophon and Siem Reap is the small town of Kralanh; it has achieved
recent notoriety for becoming the toilet capital of Cambodia. A couple of
years ago a house owner installed a WC and advertised it to passing traffic.
This proved so popular and lucrative that many of his neighbours joined in
to cash in the insatiable demand from passing tourists and locals.
There are no
shortage now of places to relieve oneself in this town; but beware; the hour
either way has no facilities; so you will just have to hang on till
Siem Reap or Sissophon
Kralanh has
an attractive old village 1km from the main centre; the old wood shop
houses were saved from destruction by the Khmer Rouge; because it was a KR
Stronghold |
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Siem Reap to Phnom Penh |
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Heading south from Siem Reap; Route 6 has improved
immensely; so much that is now takes 3 to 4 hours by car and less than
5 by bus. The ferries will have to watch out, as the road is now faster and
it is much cheaper by bus. The tarmaced, fast road has had many casualties.
There are many more traffic accidents with kids and animals. Some towns are
now putting in European style traffic calming measures; rumble strips and
massive speed humps to slow traffic down.
The first sizable town out of Siem
Reap is Dam Dek
which has a market but little else to tempt the visitor. There is now a much
improved road north; which joins the new road to the jungle temple of
Beng Mealea and
continues via the Ancient Khmer capital of
Koh Ker
and will eventually lead to the Thai the Border at O’Samach. |
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At
Kompong Kdei; there is an impressive Pre-Angkorian bridge which is
now just off the main route; as the village has been recently been
by-passed. The Bridge has magnificent Naga balustrades. and some
impressive vaulting over the river. It is worth asking a taxi driver to
stop there for a few minutes on the way.
Spean Raptos Kompong Kdei
Typical Shop Houses
 Kompong
Thom; half way to Phnom Penh is the biggest
town in the area and can be used as a base for visiting the Temples of
Sambor Pre Kuk 30kms north.
There are a
few places to stay and eat. Buses usually stop here near the Arunas
Restaurant and newly refurbished hotel near the centre of town.
double deck bus at Arunas
Hotel Kompong Thom |
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Santuk |
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Just south of here is Phnom Santuk
which is a very important Temple Mountain and well worth a visit. Approached
by nearly a thousand well maintained steps Santuk is in a splendid location
with stunning views over the surrounding country. It is possible to see
across the flood plain of the Tonle Sap to The Hills of Kampong Chhang 30kms
distant. |
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Pagoda |
Steps |
Buddha |
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Central Shrine |
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The shrines and reclining
Buddha’s are unique to the area and are not usual in Cambodia. The monks
here do not often see Western tourists; so are willing to talk and practice
their English. Inside one of the buildings is a Floating rock. with
“magical” properties. In reality it is a piece of lightweight air blown
pumice with floats in a tank of water to the amazement of many local
pilgrims. |
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Floating Rock |
Santuk Panorama |
Santuk Monks |
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Arachnophobes do not venture
below here!
One hour or so south of Kompong Thom is small town of
Skun. The pretty unremarkable place has some very remarkable eating habits.
Known as Spiderville; some residents eat roasted tarantulas which are bred
for the purpose. It is common to the ladies walking around the market and
bus stand with plates of these delicious arachnids with oil lovingly spooned
over them.
If you are really “lucky” one of the vendors will offer you a
live one to play with!
  
The last part of the journey to Phnom Penh, follows the
Mekong River. This huge waterway is hidden from view for most of the way;
but one can see the opposite banks from time to time with occasional
glimpses of the water at a distance. North Phnom Penh is now becoming quite
built up with many factories and brick works alongside the road
Brickworks
The final
approach to the city is over the Japanese Friendship Bridge which Crosses to
Tonle Sap River just north of the City.
Aerial photo of Phnom Penh Friendship bridge By Ta Elit
More on
Phnom Penh
Updated
07 Feb 2010
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